Solid copper billets: The one inch solid copper billet is indestructible! As you are learning how to set striking platforms the billet must be able to hold up to platforms that are inadvertently build to strong. They are a good choice for folks just getting started. The BIG solid copper billets (1 1/2" to 1 1/4") are designed with the "rock hunter" in mind. They are essential for thinning those huge spalls you make at the quarry. On the 1 1/2" solid copper size, rounding the working end is not needed. It will mushroom around eventually to a point. I have even used my sledge hammer on my 1 1/2" solid billet as a punch to drive off flakes with perfect accuracy!

Copper bopper billets: These will NOT hold up to heavy abuse. They are designed for precise knapping and may not be the best choice for the first timer. If the head of your bopper deforms, then there is a good chance that you are over powering the tools. Use the head and side of this billet. Be sure to use the entire surface of the tool's cap. Use the tip as well as the sides. I like to "trim" or clean up jagged edges with the tip and drive long flakes by using the side of the tool. This is an excellent tool and has revolutionized modern knapping because of the control the "weight forward" design offers. This tool has helped many a knapper progress thinning to the next level and beyond!

Ishi Sticks vs the smaller "Notchers" It can all come down to personal preference. Here is some thoughts to guide you along in your choice. All of our pressure flakers feature an adjustable tip. They are double set screwed for added peace of mind and durability. They have inserted 5" of copper wire that can be easily fed out ward as needed. The flaker tools (ishi or the "notcher") will be the tool you use for your notching, edge work and most important for platform building. It will give you the accuracy you need to create good quality striking platforms ( the heart of good knapping techniques). The difference between the notcher and the 20" long ishi stick is the power and control that can be generated with the Ishi stick. The 7/8" hard durable plastic rod is strong yet flexible. The flex gives an added "spring" affect, helping to transfer the energy through the flake detachment process producing longer flakes. However, Ishi sticks are not for everyone. Many expert knappers use only the small 6" flakers with good results. The advantage of the Ishi stick is the leverage you can generate with it. Your legs are the driving force behind this tool and your wrists just guide the force. Keep your pressure flakers sharp by pounding the tip to a point. Then dress it with a file. This will keep the copper hard and reduce slippage on the edge of your piece (don't use a bench grinder!) One must use extreme caution when using these tools. The amount of force generated must be well controlled! A hand pad must be used! Improper use of this tool and or absence of proper hand protection is the responsibility of the user. An inability to hinder this warning could result in serious injury! As with any sharp tool, one must understand how to safety use this tool. I strongly advise for the health of your tools and of YOU to purchase the book "The Art Of Flintknapping" If your unfamiliar with knapping safety and tool care. This WILL be a must!

The leather Hand Pads vs the Rubber "channeled" pads Pads are most important function is protection! I have always preferred the leather pig hide pads. They are very durable and pliable. It gives me a "feel" of the point in my hand. The pad is folded three ways. Impossible for a flake to poke through in normal use. They last a long time. I have had the same one for one year! The rubber channeled pads are most likely the best to learn with. The channel gives the detaching flake a "free" unobstructed path as it detaches, this helps the flake to feather nicer than if there was no "channel" on the pad preventing those "micro hinges" on pressured over points. Lots of knappers swear by them!

Abraders We can class the abraders into 3 groups. Course, Medium and fine grits. Each grit serves an exclusive purpose. The thinner you get the less aggressive you grit should be. The course grit is BEST suited for heave percussion work. The heavy grit can be used to rip, shear and shape the edge creating large crude heavy duty platforms in seconds. Keep using the heavy grits on thin preforms and your playing with fire! Medium grits are good for "crushing" in "isolations" and fine abrading for pressure flaking or percussion work. Fine grits are best suited for very detailed pressure work and notching.

• Need help understanding platforms? For an advanced look at platforms and there function click here